25/05/08
Bloody hell, there's a lot of stuff in Rome ... some might even say too much stuff. Certainly too much stuff for one week, at any rate - but, by God, we did our best. I've now seen the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, St. Peter's, the Pantheon (2000 years old? 2000 years old? I'm thinking I'll not look that good in 2000 years), the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Vatican .... oh god, the Vatican ...Apparently during the busy period, 20,000 (count them - twenty frigging thousand) people will walk through the Sistine Chapel in one day. Having visited the place myself, I am not surprised by this number. It was insane. I've never seen so many people clawing past each other to view The Art. And ... I dunno ... I really wanted to see it, but ...
It's impressive. I mean, no-one could say the Sistine Chapel isn't impressive. But a lot of the impact of the art is taken away by the fact you've seen all these images so many times before. The fact is, it's hard to be surprised by the Sistine Chapel, because you know exactly what you're going to get. Plus, you're surrounded by 60 million other tourists and a bunch of guards saying 'Sshh' all the time. I'm not saying it isn't worth seeing - it is. But it's never going to be quite the dramatic experience you're expecting.
In fact, I enjoyed more the contemporary art exhibition you pass through before you get to the Chapel. It's quite comedy actually - here we have a Van Gogh, some Dali's, a Francis Bacon, a rather nice cast of Rodin's 'The Thinker' (note: barring 'David' possibly the most famous sculpture in the world), and people are swarming past like rats, ignoring them all completely. I guess I'm more into contemporary art than some people - but come on! How do you just miss a Van Gogh? Take a tip from me - if you ever visit the Vatican, take a look at that section. For a start, it's a nice break from the endless array of cherubs that haunt you throughout any visit to Rome.
I do also have to mention the Borghese Gallery. Visiting this place was a much more pleasant experience than visiting the Vatican - partly because it was a lot smaller, and partly because they limit the number of people allowed in, so you're never overcrowded. Honestly, it's well worth a visit, as some of the art in that place is truly amazing.
I had no idea what was an there when I went, so I was rather surprised to find a room almost entirely full of Caravaggios. Man, I love Caravaggio. Well, okay, maybe not the guy as it sounds like he was a bit of a nob, but the paintings ... amoungst others, they had St. Jerome, John the Baptist, and one of my favourites David and Goliath (warning: this picture may contain the severed head of the artist). As well as these, there was also a bunch of sculptures by Bernini. I hate to say it, but I know nothing about the guy (despite him being hugely famous, apparently). Sculpture just isn't my thing, as a rule - but these were absolutely gorgeous, I could have stared at them for hours. I've never seen sculptures that managed to capture movement so well. I particularly liked Apollo and Daphne (do you see those leaves? Those leaves carved out of marble? As in, the rock?), The Rape of Proserpina, and David.
In other news, I also ate a whole bunch of awesome food, including the best tomatoes in the world ever, and battered courgette flowers. And I read a Falco detective novel because as everyone knows - when in Rome, one must read about Romans being bumped off in a suitably gruesome and suspicious fashion.
And now ... the obligatory holiday photos:
